- Joined
- Jan 16, 2009
- Location
- SouthEast Arkansas
Outlined here is some basic good information for someone that hasnt installed a depthfinder. This will get you on the right track from the get go.
When installing a depth finder, the first thing to do is find the best spot to view the screen. Drill your mounting and wire holes and remove any access covers where the wires will run. Make sure you have a good route to both power and the mounting point; one which will leave the least amount of exposed wires when you are finished. Nothing is worse than exposed wires around the inside of you boat. With this ready, move to the transom and do a proper layout for the transducer. An inside-mount transducer is simply affixed to the floor of the boat with an epoxy material. Be sure the hull location is in the sump area and is flat with the hull bottom. With an outside-mounted transducer, it is very important to keep you sensor surface parallel to the waters surface and that your boat floats level in the water. You can level your boat on the trailer or mark a working line by measuring down from the top of the transom on each side. Running a straight edge along the bottom mark the transom where the top of the mounting bracket leaves the sensor 1/8 inch below the inside angle of the boats bottom. Avoid areas that may have water turbulence, like behind a row of rivets. Drill your holes leaving room to move the bracket up or down on the mounting slots for adjustment later. Snug the screws but do not tighten yet. After the screws are all in and snug run a straight edge along the bottom of the boat and adjust the sensor parallel to the bottom, front to back, and level, side to side, with the boat. Once it is adjusted about 1/8" below the bottom and parallel on both planes remove and install one screw at a time using a good sealer on the threads. If your speed sensor is separate mount it on the same angle as the transom slope parallel to the bottom. No need to keep it level, and keeping it flush with the angle allows for a smooth flow of water over the paddle for accuracy. After the sensors are secure and all the screws sealed and tight you can run your wires through the transom. Keep the wires tight and secure them with wire clips. Make sure you use sealer on every screw. Most all depth finders come with the hardware including wire clips and hole covers, use them inside and out. With all the wires run and connected to the mount check for operation before you button up any access areas. Once you know its working secure the mount to the surface and close up any access points. I like to fill any through holes with silicone at this point, to avoid any wire movement that may cause wear. When you are done the only thing visible should be the mount, no wires in get hooked on. When you have finished, it is out of your way, but with a good view of the screen from most of the boat as it swivels. You can make your finial adjustment in the water. Move the sensor to give you the deepest reading in on spot and you will have the proper 90-degree angle you want for the best readings. Now go out and find fish
When installing a depth finder, the first thing to do is find the best spot to view the screen. Drill your mounting and wire holes and remove any access covers where the wires will run. Make sure you have a good route to both power and the mounting point; one which will leave the least amount of exposed wires when you are finished. Nothing is worse than exposed wires around the inside of you boat. With this ready, move to the transom and do a proper layout for the transducer. An inside-mount transducer is simply affixed to the floor of the boat with an epoxy material. Be sure the hull location is in the sump area and is flat with the hull bottom. With an outside-mounted transducer, it is very important to keep you sensor surface parallel to the waters surface and that your boat floats level in the water. You can level your boat on the trailer or mark a working line by measuring down from the top of the transom on each side. Running a straight edge along the bottom mark the transom where the top of the mounting bracket leaves the sensor 1/8 inch below the inside angle of the boats bottom. Avoid areas that may have water turbulence, like behind a row of rivets. Drill your holes leaving room to move the bracket up or down on the mounting slots for adjustment later. Snug the screws but do not tighten yet. After the screws are all in and snug run a straight edge along the bottom of the boat and adjust the sensor parallel to the bottom, front to back, and level, side to side, with the boat. Once it is adjusted about 1/8" below the bottom and parallel on both planes remove and install one screw at a time using a good sealer on the threads. If your speed sensor is separate mount it on the same angle as the transom slope parallel to the bottom. No need to keep it level, and keeping it flush with the angle allows for a smooth flow of water over the paddle for accuracy. After the sensors are secure and all the screws sealed and tight you can run your wires through the transom. Keep the wires tight and secure them with wire clips. Make sure you use sealer on every screw. Most all depth finders come with the hardware including wire clips and hole covers, use them inside and out. With all the wires run and connected to the mount check for operation before you button up any access areas. Once you know its working secure the mount to the surface and close up any access points. I like to fill any through holes with silicone at this point, to avoid any wire movement that may cause wear. When you are done the only thing visible should be the mount, no wires in get hooked on. When you have finished, it is out of your way, but with a good view of the screen from most of the boat as it swivels. You can make your finial adjustment in the water. Move the sensor to give you the deepest reading in on spot and you will have the proper 90-degree angle you want for the best readings. Now go out and find fish